Saturday, November 15, 2025

Day 11: Sat 15 Nov - Guhagar to Ratnagiri

Fine and sunny 20 to 31deg C
Ride: 73km; total: 420km 

Guhagar to RatnagiriWe continue our southern adventure on undulating, empty roads, with a short detour to another atmospheric fort steeped in the history of the East India Company and the Maratha Empire. We roll on to Ratnagiri, a steep-sided town with bustling, colourful markets and a fascinating Burmese connection. In the evening, sample Ratnagiri's nightlife and enjoy its outrageously good food. Distance: 85km | Ride Time: 6 hours | Overnight: Ratnagiri 

We continued our peddling adventure south on more undulating (read darn hilly) roads.  It was a tough ride because of the hills, made much harder by the nearly constant requirement to dodge potholes and broken up sections of roadway. Not long after leaving the hotel this morning we were greeted with a very steep and long climb. The view was great though, looking back over the beach we visited yesterday.  

Another ferry ride and then it was a short ride to another fort connected to the East India Company and the erstwhile rulers of the Maratha Empire. We enjoyed impressive views over the Arabian Sea from the top of the substantial walls. Jaigad Fort was built in 1726 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. Unfortunately, if some restoration/preservation work is not completed shortly it will eventually disappear into a pile of rubble, which will be a huge shame.  

We reached our destination Ratnagiri, with colourful markets and an alleged Burmese connection. Not that we had much of a chance to explore, as getting around town with non-existent footpaths and the constant stream of dangerous traffic was downright terrifying. Much more than Saigon, Vietnam even!  Three of us gave it a try but after flirting with death a couple of times and being a fair way out of the interesting part of the city we decided to return to the relatively safe and quiet hotel. So, after the normal chores and domestic duties I called it a night. 

Not what it appears, nothing to do with Nazis

Breakfast - fruit, toast, some Masala flavoured porridge, different!, and tea. 

Leaving the hotel this morning- the obligatory photo by the owner

He’s so proud of his store 


Morning Tea stop

Coconut yoghurt thingy

A potato dim sim (don’t know Indian name) with a bread roll - morning tea (no wonder I don’t eat dinner)

The Boss

Ferry ride

Fort Jaigad





An old boat being used as a restaurant 

More fishing villages

The ever present sacred cows

A very quiet beach 

Lunch venue 

Another fishing village

My pad for the night


The Hotel 

Sunset












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